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The Flute Portal Forums > Flute Portal Cafe (FPC): A gathering place for fun, philosophy and not-strictly-flute! > FPC: Agree To Disagree
Mark Reinheimer
Just like to know people's thoughts on removing the bird/block/fetish from your flute after playing to let them dry out.

Geoffrey
Hi Mark,

I strongly support the removal of the bird after any significant amount of play. There is a bit of talk on the subject here. It is in relation to keeping flutes clean and hygienic. It's also just a smart way to preserve your flute from any moisture related problems.
Earth Spirit Flutes
I tried to find something to disagree about but I cannot! so I have to agree. It can be easy to forget when playing many different flutes at a flute circle or performance but we should make the effort to do so.

I have seen some flutes that have never had the totem/bird removed with mold growing in the SAC and flue. Some could not even be remove without damaging the nest area as they had become fused together.

Something to think about.

Jim Davis
greybeard
QUOTE(Earth Spirit Flutes @ Jan 29 2008, 12:30 AM) *
I have seen some flutes that have never had the totem/bird removed with mold growing in the SAC and flue. Some could not even be remove without damaging the nest area as they had become fused together.


YUCK! sad.gif
Geoffrey
QUOTE(greybeard @ Jan 29 2008, 01:04 PM) *
YUCK! sad.gif


Enough to change a persons attitude about sharing flutes blink.gif
Alex
I take off the bird after playing for an extended period of play as everyone else is suggesting. After about three months I also use a 000 or 0000 steel wool to very lightly clean air chamber under the bird and apply a light coat of clapham's wax and buff. I swear that I can hear a perceptible difference in the quality of sound.

Alex
Cryss
QUOTE(Geoffrey @ Jan 29 2008, 01:41 PM) *
Enough to change a persons attitude about sharing flutes blink.gif


Yet another reason why I tend to keep "kick around" cheapies for newbees at flute circles rolleyes.gif
sue
After fluting, it is a must to remove the bird and SHAKE out our flutes. One of my first flutes was a PVC flute in the key of "B", from the Oregon Flute Store. I was horrified when i looked into the flute after just a couple of days. PVC takes a long time to dry on its own. I had to make sure that i found something to clean and dry the inside of my flute. Also, there was mold growing inside and around the bird area. YUK! : angry.gif This was a hard lesson because i had to have someone change out the fipple. (its cork). Its a good thing it wasn't a wood flute.
I have heard rumors that people are drying out their flutes with "canned air", that is used to blow out dust on their keyboards.
I would like to hear from you all if that is OK to do that. Thanks.
sue
Geoffrey
QUOTE(sue @ Jan 30 2008, 06:37 PM) *
After fluting, it is a must to remove the bird and SHAKE out our flutes. One of my first flutes was a PVC flute in the key of "B", from the Oregon Flute Store. I was horrified when i looked into the flute after just a couple of days. PVC takes a long time to dry on its own. I had to make sure that i found something to clean and dry the inside of my flute. Also, there was mold growing inside and around the bird area. YUK! : angry.gif This was a hard lesson because i had to have someone change out the fipple. (its cork). Its a good thing it wasn't a wood flute.
I have heard rumors that people are drying out their flutes with "canned air", that is used to blow out dust on their keyboards.
I would like to hear from you all if that is OK to do that. Thanks.
sue


Personally I wouldn't use canned air. Every time I've used it for things like cleaning electronics, it had a chemical smell. I'd hesitate to use it on my own flutes, though it may be harmless. Not really necessary if someone is good about taking off the block and shaking the flute out.
Mark
It has been my experience that some makers make it a real chore to remove the blocks. They tie down the blocks in such a way that it takes 5 minutes to get the block off and even worse is the processes needed to tie it back on.


Flute Techie Nerd Alert cool.gif biggrin.gif tongue.gif
I recently got a flute from a gentleman who used strong whole earth magnets inlayed into the body of the flute and under a laminate in the block to hold it very securely in place. This allows the block to be easily removed and then firmly placed back on the flute without any effort. No ties to mess with and and the risk of dropping the block! Maybe just a novelty but I love it. I find myself playing it around the house and when finished quickly popping off the block to let it air out. Reattaching it is also a very fast process. The magnets are strong enough that it does not move when playing and gives a very secure hold.

Mark
Geoffrey
Ooooooo....that sounds really cool! Tieless flutes would be really handy, particularly for performers who need to keep their flutes dry during a show. Pull off the block, a quick shake, a quick wipe with a cloth or paper towel and you're back in business!

Might have to look into that...
Mark
QUOTE(Geoffrey @ Feb 18 2008, 02:19 PM) *
Ooooooo....that sounds really cool! Tieless flutes would be really handy, particularly for performers who need to keep their flutes dry during a show. Pull off the block, a quick shake, a quick wipe with a cloth or paper towel and you're back in business!

Might have to look into that...



I would be glad to be your quality assurance tester! wink.gif
4winds
I take the bird off and dry the flute with a small fan as well. The moisture build up is substantial. Placing the bird back can be awkward and time consuming. I have thought about having custom strap, velcro, or snap leather wraps made for nightly practice.
freckledsophie
Yes, that does seem like a neat idea. I'd make sure that whatever magnet type is used can handle getting wet. Some will corrode. Though a thin gold plating (not expensive) can often take care of this. Also, whatever metallic surface is used to mate with the magnet should also be impervious to rust and corrosion. There are certain types of stainless steel that are actually magnetic and might work well.

Note: A magnet atracting another magnet cannot be used as it would prevent moving the block around to fine tune it's position. Also, the magnets would have to be far enough apart to avoid any detrimental effects from overlapping of the magnetic fields. Finally, I'd suggest recessing the magnets just slightly below the surface of the wood so that you never have metal to magnet contact. Only metal to wood or wood to wood (in which case the metal would be recessed slightly as well.

Here's a possible good source: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/categories.asp?...CFQ2QggodmzerZw

I notice that they have epoxy and plastic coated magnets.
freckledsophie
Here's a site that has a little to say about magnets and moisture: http://www.coolmagnetman.com/magcare.htm

And some general FAQ's: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/faq.asp

greybeard
Give me Wood and Leather. The combination will give you a good secure seal that is easily adjustable, not to mention the aestetic aspect...............................

tootieflutie58
QUOTE(greybeard @ Feb 22 2008, 08:23 AM) *
Give me Wood and Leather. The combination will give you a good secure seal that is easily adjustable, not to mention the aestetic aspect...............................


I agree. If wood and leather was good enough for the Native Americans ... Well, you know. But I do prefer the more natural design and elements.
freckledsophie
If designed properly, the flute could be made to appear that the leather was holding the block in place when it really wasn't.
Mark
On the flutes I have with magnets (got a new one recently biggrin.gif ) the magnets are not visible and are inserted into the body of the flute and block under inlays. Thus they are not exposed to moisture. I do not know exactly where they are in the flute being that they are not visible. The magnet/s is strong and holds tight while allowing the block to be adjustable. It would be very easy to throw a leather tie over the block to give the appearance of being tied down.
freckledsophie
Hmmmm.....how about a leather tie with Velcro? 'Gives the appearance but is easy to remove.

I noticed that there are at least two different types of magnet materials that are suitable for use in moist environments.
Spirit of the Woods
I agree with Geoffrey on this. It depends on the amount of play. If the flute gets real wet then remove the block and let it air out. If the flute doesn't get real wet then I wouldn't worry about it. That is if the flute has been finished. If it is raw wood then you should remove it after every play.
Just Jim
Here's one for you all. It's a Utah Ferris Mid "G"Drone I bought at Green Frog with a small set screw to hold the totum:

Click to view attachment

Utah told me he tried these because so many drone Totums just don't want to stay put. But clamp this little sucker down and it NEVER slips! And this drone plays SWEET!!!!!!
Hawk
Ok Just Jim with regards to your reply in the other topic about your Grand Mom being Iroquois...
I am mad at you (snicker snicker) now in the tradition of (insert mythological super sounding name) you must give me that BEAUTIFUL drone flute or the earth will shake rattle and roll smile.gif

Sure is a nice looking flute! What wood is it? How does it sound? Wheres the sound clip?
Geoffrey
That set screw idea is brilliant! I have trouble lashing down drone blocks so that they'll stay put. After the "stretch" has gone out of the leather tie, it takes a bit of doing to get it cinched down properly. A little screw like that is an elegant solution (you could even decorate or disguise the screw head).
Hawk
I use a half hitch to secure the saddle to the flute. For the drone(s) when making the hitch I wrap the end of the leather twice instead of once. This seems to work fine for the type of saddle I use. They typically are flat.
Webb
QUOTE(Geoffrey @ Apr 13 2009, 10:11 PM) *
That set screw idea is brilliant! I have trouble lashing down drone blocks so that they'll stay put. After the "stretch" has gone out of the leather tie, it takes a bit of doing to get it cinched down properly. A little screw like that is an elegant solution (you could even decorate or disguise the screw head).


Geoffrey,

One could even incorporate a small slot in block (running toward mouthpiece and foot) that would allow for minor adjustment in order to find the "sweet spots", eh? wink.gif

Just a thought...

Clear Notes,
Just Jim
QUOTE(Webb @ Apr 13 2009, 11:21 PM) *
Geoffrey,

One could even incorporate a small slot in block (running toward mouthpiece and foot) that would allow for minor adjustment in order to find the "sweet spots", eh? wink.gif

Just a thought...

Clear Notes,


The bird on my Drone is slotted... but the slot only runs forward towards the bore.
If you slightly loosen the screw you can really tweak the sweet spot.
Brent Haines
Whenever I sell a flute to someone new I always instruct them to remove the totem after playing the instrument. There are two reasons I have for having them do this. This allows the moisture that is gathered in the first chamber to dry out. Which in turn reduces the chance for mold growth and also helps to ensure the flute does not develop cracks. The flutes we love are wood and as such need attention to ensure their long term use.

Brent
Randy Bryhn
QUOTE(Geoffrey @ Jan 29 2008, 01:41 PM) *
Enough to change a persons attitude about sharing flutes blink.gif



Hmmmm yuk again
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