I would like to start a thread on the basic Care and Feeding of the Native American Flute. I would like to propose we keep this thread pretty focused and a good tool for those of us who really could use some tips. This is something many of us are guilty of neglecting (myself included).

We can split off into sub-threads for such things at the "watering out" and "disinfecting" discussions we had, if necessary.

For now, I would really like to hear what flute makers, artists and flute enthusiasts alike are both suggesting and doing with regard to keeping the flute finish nice, polishing suggestions and techniques, perhaps opening dialog with regard to frequency of polishing, proper use of cloth, steal wool, repairing, storing (using stands verses cases, etc.) and anything else that comes to mind.

I'll throw in my two cents as far as recommendations that I give to my customers.

First and foremost, of course, is letting your flute dry out thoroughly between uses. Take the block off and shake it out if necessary.

To help encourage good flute maintenance, I send a kit with every flute I sell that consists of: 1 jar of Claphams Beeswax Furniture Polish, 1 pad of 0000 steel wood (ultra fine), 1 small cotton cloth for applying wax, 1 larger cotton cloth for polishing.

If you play a lot, then you can refresh the finish on your flute quite often--every week or so. It is not uncommon for serious players to get a build up of "gunk" around the mouthpiece and finger holes. This is basically a goulash of dead skin, oils and whatever else is floating around that happens to stick to it. That is what the steel wool is for.

When you see a film of this gunk, you can gently rub it out with the steel wool and then re-wax the flute.

I leave the bottom of my blocks "raw" most of the time (they are made with a cedar "shoe" underneath) to allow them to absorb a little moisture. However, they can be waxed at any time. The inside of the air channel can be waxed as well, but I urge a very light-handed approach with that, since wax build up can eventually obscure the air channel. They are already so shallow that even a hundredth of an inch difference can affect the air flow.

I seal my flutes inside and out with a waterproof marine epoxy, which I topcoat with Lacquer and beeswax. Because of this, they are pretty resistant to the elements and can take a fair amount of neglect. That does not mean that I think people should neglect their flutes! Rather, it is my concession to human nature: most players will not bother to care for their flutes as they should be cared for, therefore I do all I can to make the flutes impervious to neglect.

Apart from the simple "dry and wax" approach, there is not much that needs to be done to take care of a flute (only speaking for my own stuff here). As I say in my instruction booklets, make sure you use common sense. Don't stick them in the oven and don't leave them in the snow and rain. They are only wood, and are therefore inherently fragile (except things like Bubinga, which you can use to chuck your car tires when you park on a hill ) Treat them like wooden instruments and they will last a lifetime.

Cyrss
What I do with all my flutes is to apply a coat of Clapham's wax one time per year. I take off the block and do a thorough cleaning of the entire flute. I think once in a while the block should be removed so it does not become permanently affixed with "gunk". I also like a product called Renaissance wax first developed for the British Musuem. It used to be very expensive as you had to buy a large quantity of it but now you can get a small container for $25. A jar will last forever. What I like about the product is its wonderful smell.
I have lazy susan racks so the flutes will rack up end down so the moisture will drain down. In cold weather you will get much more condensation inside the flute and it needs to be drained out. You can just prop up your flute for 1/2 hour and let it drain into a cloth. I also have my flutes displayed on racks much like Freckled sophie has shared. I also try to dust the flutes regularly with a swifer so they don't become encrusted! Finally what I have found is that the mouth peice is where the finish is most likely to ware off due to the moisture. I keep wax with me and just do the mouth piece after extended play. I have a lot of money invested into my instruments and try to keep them looking like new. Many are one of a kind.
Of course a good hard case and flute sock is a must for transport. I think that is about the extent of it. You will find a jar of wax in my flute room at all times!

Great suggestions all so far.

My polish of choice is Ruelles:

http://www.ruelle.com/en/beeswax/products.php

They are a small company and nice to deal with. Thier products include a Bees Wax Polish that has a lotion like consitency and a paste wax that applies and spreads easier than any other I've found. All Bio-Degradable, no Petrolem distillates, ect.

I use a combination of the two, polish first and wax second. I keep the rag that I use to wipe off and buff the poilish in a Zip Lock bag. It stays saturated and is great for a quick clean up and polishing.

And Geoffrey, Nice touch including the maintenance kit...........
Ed

It's been mentioned to remove the block before polishing, buffing, but what about say a woodland wrap? I'm afraid to remove it because I could never retie the complicated knots, and I'm not even sure if the "sinew" part in the middle comes off. I have another flute that has three "sinew" bands that I'm sure can't be removed. Should I just carefully polish and buff around them? What about the finger holes? Should I polish around them carefully, or can I just go over them?

You are right--you don't want to remove those wraps. I can't speak to all of the different kinds, but the type I do (and the type Colyn Petersen does, since he taught me) are sewn on with sinew and can only be removed by cutting the stitching.
Just wax around them.

Yes, take off the block and wax the nest area if you are doing it, and by all means do around the finger holes. The mouthpiece and finger holes are where the real wear and tear takes place. Just keep a Q-tip handy to get the wax out of the holes when you are done.

What about the inlaid abalone shell rings that are going to be on my new flute? Do I wax and polish that or leave it alone?

You may certainly wax them.

With my flutes, since I topcoat with lacquer and then wax, the best way is to give a light waxing periodically. I include 0000 steel wool for rubbing off the gunk, but even that should not be used agressively. Gentle rubbing will take away any gunk, and then the wax. Really focused, agressive rubbing will eventually go through the lacquer. There is an undercoat of marine epoxy that will not be very suseptible to steel wool, but you don't want to uncover it if possible.

If you keep the flute waxed, you'll probably never need the steel wool anyway.

I keep my flutes laying out on a cloth on a table. The room is always kept at about 50% humidity. I let them dry between uses. I have noticed that my bass flutes seem a bit water logged if I play them any one of them too long at once. (like over an hour)
Then again, Iusually never play any one that long. I swap around.
I have never put anything on them. They look and sound great. I do end up going a while between playings. I hope I am doing ok with them.

One of my flutes is now nearing two years old, so it could probably do with a bit of TLC!

Stupid question time coming up: I have a solid block of beeswax somewhere - can I use this on my flute, and how should I go about it?

You can use Beeswax in block form. It is a little tough to work. You need to soften it up with the heat of you hands or friction. Another option is to heat a little bit of mineral oil and melt the beeswax into it. Mix it well, as it cools it will solidify to a paste or lotion like consistency.

If you don't want to mess with this process, you can pick up a good quality beeswax polish, a couple of which are mentioned above. Try a woodworkers supply. Just check the lable to make sure that it is organic and contains no "petrolem distillates".

Apply it generously, leave it on for 10 min or so then buff with a soft cloth. After you have used that cloth a bit it and it absorbs the polish, keep it in a Zip-Lock bag. It is great to use for quick touch ups.

While I use different methods based on how the flute is finished, some flutes require no more than an application of renaissance wax from time to time, while others require a light application of walnut oil, wait 24 hrs. and then buff off all excess oil, and others require oiling inside and out, again based on their interior and exterior finishing. Interior lacquered flutes, such as bamboo shakuhachi that have interior urushi lacquers, should only be oiled on the exterior.

One caution, that hard shell exterior finished flutes should not be exterior oiled, as the exterior hard shell finishes can be softened by oil, making them tacky. Also, never leave any excess oil on the surface more than 24 hrs. so that no excess build-up of oil occurs. You only want as much as the material will absorb, into the surface, over 24 hrs.

Wood flutes need minimal maintenance, but bamboo and rivercane require regular maintenance.

Most hard shell finishes have a glossier sheen, while matte sheens indicate oil or absorbing hard finishes may have been used. Oil finishes usually have an oil odor about them.

Penetrating shellac finishes, are usually matte in appearance, and can usually be maintained with hard shell waxes, like Renaissance wax.

All flutes will eventually show wear around the mouthpiece, so extra protection from a beeswax mix of beeswax and mineral oil, can be applied and buffed around the mouthpiece, as an extra protection for both the flute and the player, as it is non-toxic. This can also be used around the fingerholes, but hard waxes are better in that area, as beeswax soft enough to work, will wear quickly around the fingerholes, from friction.

While there is a lot of discussion over finishes in the sac, I like a penetrating hard finish in the sac, myself. I think that protects both the flute, and the player, from excessive moisture issues, in that area. There are various types of finishes that are fine for the sac.

As with any custom made item, there is no one method that is universal, as different makers use different methods in making flutes, but if you learn to recognize the variables, you can keep your flutes in top notch condition, with minimal effort.

I also believe that the flue should not be unfinished, at all, as moisture absortion into the raw wood, especially in flutes with flue in the block, can literally shut off the flue, from wood swelling, and make the flute unplayable, without complete dry-out.

Is either Beeswax or mineral oil best for the exterior of bamboo and rivercane flutes and should the inside of the flutes also be treated regularly with a good oil (such as mineral or walnut)?

Dave

I use walnut oil on bamboo and rivercane, let soak 24 hrs. with a light application, and then remove all excess and buff. On natural bore flutes, I also oil the interior with a gun cleaning rod, and then remove the excess with clean patches, after 24 hrs.

The mineral oil will work fine, also. The beeswax is best for the mouthpiece, but you can use it to buff up the sheen on the bamboo or cane, as well.

Thanks Rick.

Click to view attachment Sorry I haven't introduced myself yet, haven't figured that one out yet, but here is my question.

Raymond Redfeather helped me make my first flute. The last thing to do is sand and put the finish on. I have not been able to access his website to purchase the finishing material he suggested. His site was there and then it was gone.
Does anyone know what finish Raymond used? I believe it began with an M.
Linda

Can't help you with your question but welcome to the forum!

Hello Linda and welcome to the forum. I can't help you either but I am sure that someone knows. The only finish that I can think of that starts with an M is mineral oil.
dd

Hello to all.

Even though I can't buy a flute from every great maker, there are some who sell products related to the flute which are in my budget. One such product is called Flootwax, which is made by Doug Daniels of Tymochteeflutes. Flootwax is a combination of beeswax and almond oil. You can also get it with lemon oil added which is what I have. Rubs on nice and off nicely and really worked well on my Butch Hall flute. The lemon oil helped clean the flute as well as left it with a nice but subtle lemon scent. So, if you are looking for something to spiff up your flute and you aren't into mixing your own wax and oil, you might give Flootwax a try. His website is www.tymochteeflutes.com

dd

Not sure what Raymond used as a finish, but if your flute is unfinished, you have all options open to you, on how to finish it.

His site is gone, and unlikely to return, nor is anyone likely to hear anything about him, anytime soon. (More about that in another thread.)

If you like more of an unfinished look to your flutes, you can use an oil based finish. if you like more of a furniture quality finish, you can use a hard shell finish, such as salad bowl finish, which you can do over a tung oil dip. The tung oil dip, will seal the interior and protect it from moisture, especially in the slow air chamber.

Some makers just use the tung oil dip, and then a wax and buff, final finish.

So......there really isn't one answer, but rather assorted methods.

I took a flute making class from Raymond a few years ago as well, and it seems the stuff he recommended was very expensive.

The other option he suggested, which I ended up going with is salad bowl oil, as Rick mentioned. It's a bit messy (as I would expect just about anything would be for flute finishing), but it worked well.

Keep in mind that the flute will be going in/on your mouth, so you want something that is "food grade", or at least, non-toxic.

Jason

I have made a couple of flutes from kits and I finished one with tung oil and one with salad bowl finish. I liked the salad bowl finish better.
Michele

The salad bowl finish can be used over the the tung oil, on the exterior, after it dries. "oil" is a misnomer, really, as it is more of a penetrating finish than an oil.

Most hard shell finishes are safe when cured, even if they are a little hazardous while wet.

Thanks to all for the info on finishing my flute. I have a number of flutes but the one that Raymond and I built is by far the sweetest sounding one I have.
He said that he learned his technique from Old Coyote Man. I would like to continue to build flutes using that technique. Does anyone know where I could purchase the components that Raymond uses?
I don't know what happened to Raymond but will look for the thread that perhaps will give me some insight. To me he seemed dedicated and honest but from what I am hearing that might not be the case.
Whatever is going on in his life I hope that he resolves it so that he can return to the community of wonderful flute makers.
Keeping The Promise,
Linda Brads Ma and Champion
[font="Tahoma"]http://www.bradkimball.com[/font]

Hello Linda,

Raymond Redfeather has apparently been engaged in less than honest business practices and has run into the long arm of the law. The INFA has some comments on the situation in the latest issue of Voice of the Wind on page 28. We all hope that whatever has happened, that he will make peace with his situations and return to excellent flute making some day.

dd

Linda, if you are looking for flute blanks, for making your own flutes (but made easier), there are several suppliers of those. One is Russ Wolf, who you can find in the members list. Russ also has authored a book on flute making, that many flute makers use as their guide.

Coyote Oldman, is the standard by which most other makers base their flute making on. Perhaps that is actually where we got the term "standard" tuning.

Raymond is not likely to surface, anytime in the near future, although if and when he does, he will likely have issues to face, with law enforcement. I wouldn't recommend you go looking for him, as he has dropped out of sight.

Linda,

I had a strong sense that you have a story to tell about Brad. I noticed the link at the end of your post and visited the site.

Prayers and blessings as you continue to live out his legacy and message.

Great discussion ... is there a health problem with using items like tung oil, especially when it comes in contact with the mouth ... my local lumber store recommended that instead I use "John Boos Mystrey oil" something that can be put on items like salad bowls. I have also used walnut oil that can be purchased at the grocery store and has the added advantge of using it for cooking and in salads ... assuming you are not allegic to walnuts and like cooking. They both leavea nice "golden Brown" finish on my bamboo flutes. I have been adding a final touch with bees wax rubbed on and buffed. On flutes that have saddles that come off easily, I do take them off after playing and wipe off everything. On the ones with saddles that can't be removed, I use a pipe cleaner to get the extra moisture off and both typs are laid mouth piece down for the night. My oldest flute is only a year old and does not appear to have any wear, though I have used the bees wax on it ... probably overkill.

Vijay

Anybody knows about Coyote oldman Pueblo flutes maintance?

Waht to use on them? I mean they have this beautiful color ,enamel and pigment?
I guess oil wouldnt work so good on them ,it can take off color maybe?
I guess the critical point on painted pueblo flutes must be the rim and around it caused by fat of the skin and mouth!
And of course around fingerholes!
Anybody knows?

I believe Coyote Oldman is using enamel paints on his flutes. I basically wipe mine down with just a damp cloth (if needed). You shouldn't have to do anything with the inside, at most a coating of something non-toxic lilke a salad bowl / bamboo cutting board oil. I usually only use that on the interiors of my hardwood flutes. I put it on fairly liberally, let soak for about ten minutes and wipe out all the excess. Most likely your Coyote Oldman is made with cedar which shouldn't require much at all in the way of interior maintenance.

BroncoBIll

I'd e-mail him and ask what's best.

Jeah am gona do that i think,, i want my babies 2 shine!!!
I think our great MGA is very bussy, ...i e-mailed him regarding anasazi flute and i still wait for his reply! Buzzy buzzy man!!!( i love his rims)

On flutes with painted finishes, stick with a conditioning beeswax (beeswax and mineral oil blend) or a commercially available one like Greybeard offers. Just apply to the mouthpiece itself, to help protect against the moisture from your lips.

Thank you!
I found his own made wax on his webpage!
He offers in diffrent fragnances as well, gona put on for order straight away!
thank you again!

A question about moisture control: is it a good idea to untie and dry the fetish after each playing session, or should it be done once a week?
What is your experience with this?

Each player makes that decision for himself, and based on how much the flute gets played, and how wet it gets, when it is played. Some people always remove the block, while others seldom do, and indeed, I know one maker who glues down the block.

Thank you! I guess, with experience I will get a better idea. So far, I did it once, and the bottom of the fetish was pretty wet. I suppose, usually it will dry fine on its own, without the need to untie it.

Some players turn the flute mouth end down, on a towel, to drain the sac of excess moisture, whether they remove the block or not. More moisture will be in the sac, than any where else.

Always allow a flute to air dry, when possible, before putting it away, in a bag etc. That will only take a few minutes.

Since my recent episode with the cracking of my Xiao and hearing some other noises while playing some NAFs, I figured I'd better get serious about flute maintenance. I've reviewed all the recommendations but my question is regarding two untreated bamboo quena's that I purchased from Jeff Whittier at Shakuhachi.com.

Unlike my quena's from Un Mondo de bambu and another maker in Paris, it's a very thick bamboo and not the river bamboo ? with the grain. They are not lacquered and I notice with the Chinese Dizi he charges extra for that service but does not offer it for the quena's.

Should I lacquer it myself? If so any recommendations on a product? Or should I just put walnut oil on the raw bamboo?

Also, I ordered the Ruelle Products Greybeard recommended. But I'm wondering what's wrong with using some of Burt's Bee Lip balm with bee's wax, coconut oil and a little vitamin E? Easy application. So it seems.

Those can simply be oiled, like other bamboo flutes, or you can use a hard shell finish like salad bowl finish, or poly, on them. You just need to oil them reguarly, about every three months.